Spisehuset remains a little-known treasure. I was skeptical when a friend invited me to what seemed an abandoned corner of the otherwise trendy Meat Packing District, but my doubts were erased with the first bite.
Each course of the changing tasting menu — from the tartare of young bull served with Limfjord oysters and marinated beets to the raw milk cheese — features mainly local ingredients. The chefs, Johannes Vestergaard and Niclas Gronhoj Moller, create light-handed dishes that look simple but surprise with the depth of their flavor. And on one of those spring evenings when the rain or cold returns, there is no cozier spot than at one of their candlelit tables.